We fix e-bikes. All of them.

What this actually is

Most of what goes wrong on an e-bike is not dramatic. Brake pads wear down unevenly, gears drift out of index, bolts back off a quarter-turn at a time, and the chain quietly grinds itself into a replacement part because nobody put oil on it.

A basic tune catches all of that before any of it becomes a bill. It is the single most cost-effective thing you can do for a bike you intend to keep.

E-bikes need this more than regular bikes, not less

An electric bike is heavier and faster than a pedal bike, which means the brakes and drivetrain take substantially more punishment. Add South Florida salt air and the interval shortens again. Twice a year is a sensible default. If you ride daily or park near the ocean, make it three.

When to book this instead of a basic tune

Book the Performance Tune if any of these are true: the bike has never been serviced, it has been ridden hard for a season, it has been sitting for a year, or something feels wrong and you cannot say precisely what.

The wheel truing and bearing work are what separate the two services. Those are the components that fail expensively and slowly, and they are almost never caught by a rider — a wheel goes out of true a millimeter at a time and you adapt to it without noticing.

The electrical inspection matters

Connectors corrode, particularly here. A harness that is 90 percent fine and 10 percent green inside a connector housing will work perfectly until the day it strands you. We look at all of it while the bike is already apart, which is the cheapest time to look.

We diagnose brands we do not sell

This is deliberate, and it is most of why this service exists. If you bought a bike online from a brand with no local presence, a fault means a support ticket, a photo request, and a three-week conversation with somebody who cannot see the bike.

We can see the bike. In an hour you will know what is broken.

What we cannot always promise

Parts. There are a great many e-bike brands, some of which no longer exist and some of which never really did, and their proprietary controllers and displays are occasionally impossible to source at any price.

We will tell you that honestly and early rather than after taking your money. Knowing that a bike is uneconomic to repair is itself worth having — it stops you spending another year and several hundred dollars finding out the slow way.

Why the rear wheel is different on an e-bike

On a normal bike a rear flat is fifteen minutes. On a hub-motor e-bike the wheel is wired to the frame, held by torque arms that must be reinstalled in the right orientation, and connected to a disc brake that needs realigning afterwards.

Get any of that wrong and the failure modes range from a rubbing rotor to a motor cable sheared off under load. This is the repair we most often see done badly at home, and the second attempt costs more than the first would have.

Ask us about puncture protection

If you are getting repeated flats, the repair is not the answer — the tire is. Sand, shell grit and the debris on the A1A shoulder are hard on thin sidewalls. There are tires and sealants that make the problem largely go away, and we would rather sell you those once than sell you the same repair five times.

Why this is not optional on an electric bike

An e-bike with a rider is a heavier, faster object than a bicycle, and all of that energy has to go into the brakes. A soft lever on a pedal bike is annoying. A soft lever on a 70-pound bike at 20 mph is the difference between stopping and not.

The signs

The lever travels further than it used to. It feels spongy rather than firm. It pulls closer to the bar on a long descent or after repeated braking. Any of those means air in the system, and none of them improve on their own.

No judgement

Really. A good number of the bikes on our stand came from a website, and we would rather you rode a correctly built bike than a badly built one. The alternative — a stranger’s bike assembled at speed on a kitchen floor with an Allen key from the box — is how people get hurt.

What is usually wrong out of the box

Bikes ship about 80 percent built, and the remaining 20 percent is the part that matters. In practice we routinely find brake rotors bent in transit, handlebars torqued by whoever packed it, wheels that were never properly tensioned at the factory, and disc brakes that have never been aligned.

None of these are exotic. All of them are the difference between a bike that is fine and a bike that is fine until it is not.

Then we are your shop

Assembly is how most of our service customers meet us. You bought the bike elsewhere; that is genuinely fine. When it needs a tune, a tire or a diagnosis in eighteen months, you will already know where to bring it.

The upgrades that are actually worth the money

Most people ask about motors and batteries. Most people would get far more out of a better saddle, a suspension seatpost and puncture-resistant tires — the three things that decide whether an hour on the bike is pleasant.

We will tell you when an upgrade is not worth doing. There is no version of this business where selling you a part you do not need works out well for us.

Custom builds

If you have a specific idea — a particular look, a particular fit, a bike built around a physical constraint — come in and describe it. Some of the most satisfying bikes we have built started as a conversation that began “this is probably not possible, but…”